April 22, 2015 Important Jewelry Auction Featured Rare Examples of Cartier Tutti Frutti Jewelry from the Collection of a Prominent American Family
Strong Competition for Exquisite Jewelry by Such Prominent Makers as Van Cleef & Arpels, David Webb, Tiffany & Co. and Yard
Doyle New York's Important Jewelry auction on April 22, 2015 offered jewelry spanning the Antique, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modern eras by the world's most prestigious makers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and David Webb.
Strong international competition from hundreds of bidders in the saleroom, on the telephones, and on the Internet resulted in a successful sale total of $4,242,438, against a pre-sale estimate of $3,018,200-4,263,500.
Cartier Tutti Frutti Jewelry
Highlighting the sale was a rare pair of circa 1925 Art Deco Tutti-Frutti pendant-earclips by Cartier that achieved a record $185,000. The earclips attracted international competition that sent the bidding soaring past the pre-sale estimate of $30,000-50,000, to set a new world auction record for Cartier Tutti Frutti earclips. From the same consignor was a circa 1925 Art Deco 'Tutti Frutti' barrette by Cartier that fetched $59,375, far surpassing their estimate of $10,000-15,000.
Cartier’s Tutti Frutti jewelry of the 1920s combines the exuberant colors and textures of India with the refined and stylish designs produced by the firm during the Art Deco era. In 1901, Pierre Cartier was commissioned to create a necklace for England’s Queen Alexandra to compliment three Indian gowns sent to her by Mary Curzon, the wife of the Viceroy of India. This eventually led to a growing demand from prominent European and Indian clients for pieces that blended both Western and Eastern motifs and sensibilities.
Fashioned from diamonds and carved colored gemstones set in platinum, the earclips and barrette were very rare examples of each form. They embodied Cartier’s fascination with Indian motifs, which influenced the firm’s jewelry of the Art Deco period. The earclips were designed as diamond-encrusted flower-filled baskets or bowls enhanced with carved emeralds and rubies from India. In his seminal work, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, Hans Nadelhoffer states, “Cut and naturalistically engraved in leaf, blossom and berry shapes, (the stones) recalled the Islamic flower cult of the Mogul emperors and gave rise to some of the airiest creations of (Cartier designers) Jacqueau in Paris and Genaille in New York – flower and fruit bracelets, and brooches in the shape of fruit bowls or flower baskets.”
According to the family, the earclips and barrette were acquired directly from Cartier, Paris. They possess a distinguished American pedigree, having descended in the same prominent family to the current owner.
The sale also featured a selection of exquisite rings that sold exceptionally well. A cabochon sapphire and diamond ring by Yard centering a cushion-shaped sugarloaf cabochon Burma sapphire of approx. 8.37 carats from the Estateof Marguerite Singer Wilson sold for a stunning $137,000, many times its estimate of $15,000-20,000. A cabochon sapphire and diamond ring by David Webb set with an oval cabochon sapphire of approx. 60.45 carats fetched $56,250, more than tripling its estimate of $12,000-18,000.
Diamond rings in the sale were highlighted by an example from the collection of a Sarasota Lady set with a round diamond of approx. 4.77 carats, H color, SI1 clarity, that sold for $87,500, doubling its estimate of $35,000-45,000. A ring centering an emerald-cut diamond of approx. 9.19 carats, W to X color, VVS2 clarity, from the collection of an East Coast Lady achieved $75,000 against an estimate of $50,000-70,000. Fancy colored diamonds featured a ring by Tiffany & Co. centering an oval Fancy Yellow diamond of approx. 4.56 carats, VS2 clarity, that fetched $62,500 against an estimate of $50,000-70,000.
Natural pearl jewelry was highlighted by a an elegant pearl necklace with a diamond and emerald clasp by Yard. Composed of 80 natural pearls approx. 9.18 to 4.05 mm., the necklace sold for $62,500, exceeding its estimate of $30,000-50,000. Also performing strongly was a circa 1920 natural button pearl and diamond ring, the pearl measuring 12.2 x 12.3 mm., that sold for $50,000, many times over its estimate of $10,000-15,000.
All prices include the buyer’s premium.
Upcoming Jewelry Auctions:
Fine Jewelry: May 21, 2015 (Doyle’s Inaugural Auction in Beverly Hills)
Fine Jewelry: June 11, 2015
Important Jewelry: Fall 2015
Consignments are currently being accepted for Doyle New York’s upcoming jewelry auctions. We invite you to contact us for a complimentary auction evaluation. Our specialists are always available to discuss the sale of a single item or an entire collection.
For information, please call Ann Lange at 212-427-4141, ext 221 or email [email protected]