Sale 0205221 | Lot 94

Paul Poiret Military Style Evening Coat French, circa 1917

Catalogue: Couture, Textiles and Accessories
Paul Poiret Military Style Evening Coat French, circa 1917

Lot Details

Lot 94
Paul Poiret Military Style Evening Coat French, circa 1917
French, circa 1917
Of French blue ribbed silk, the front and back cut in one piece, with three narrow trapezoidal inserts at sides and one at each side of center front, full straight sleeve sewn below shoulder with right angle seaming, the grain in opposite direction to the main body, with stand collar and turned back cuffs held up with Oriental style silk loops and molded gilt-metal spherical buttons, the buttons repeated at collar and hip level, the collar, cuffs and deep hem trimmed with black velvet and gold metallic cord sewn in vinery pattern, the collar further trimmed with beaver, changeante gold silk lining, labeled: Paul Poiret a Paris and Marshall Field & Co./Chicago.
Very good condition, two inch removable tuck taken at below-knee level, shortening coat by approximately 4 inches, minor small abrasions to silk, buttons possibly moved.
Paul Poiret served in the military during World War I. His major contribution to the war effort was to create a design for the overcoats worn by French soldiers that minimized the amount of fabric needed by cutting the front and back from one piece of material to which then the sleeves needed only to be sewn. This coat is possibly a fashionable version of that design. It may also be part of the original collection he produced in 1917 to bring to the United States for American stores to copy and sell with a Poiret label. The scheme never went further than the production of the original collection. The coat could be part of that collection, although further reseach is required to establish whether the originals ever were sent to the United States. See Palmer White, Poiret, pp.136-139.

Estimate: $12,000 - $18,000
Sold for $6,500 (includes buyer's premium)

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Estimate: $12,000 - $18,000
Sold for $6,500 (includes buyer's premium)

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Catalogue Info

Couture, Textiles and Accessories

Wed, May 22, 2002 at 10am EDT
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