Dec 6, 2023 10:00 EST
Doyle+Design: Part I
230
A group of four colorful fashion designs from the 1976 collection, "Opéra - Ballets Russes"
Yves Saint Laurent
Four Fashion designs, each with two figures. Circa 1976. Unsigned. Colored marker on paper. Each sheet 8 x 10.5 inches. Pasted along the top edges to a black paper-covered board.
These four designs are from Yves Saint Laurent's 1976 fall-winter collection, titled "Opéra – Ballets Russes," where he first began to embrace bright colors and sumptuous fabrics, reintroducing opulence into his fashion designs after a decade dominated by muted blacks and whites. It was also his first collection to have its fashion show at the Hotel Inter-Continental. The collection was, as the name suggests, partly inspired by Sergei Diaghilev, his costume designer Leon Bakst, and Tsarist Russia. However, the designs are also evocative of nineteenth-century Orientalist paintings and certain pieces of Moroccan menswear, such as the jabador, burnous, saroual and tarboosh. Saint Laurent reworked those traditional garments into women's clothing that was liberating in terms of its silhouette, yet inherently feminine - a collection that exists between genders and cultures. It is often cited as one of the most lauded and important in Saint Laurent's long and storied career. The New York Times heralded the show as "revolutionary," and wrote in its gushing review, published on July 28, 1976, that "Yves Saint Laurent presented a fall couture collection today that will change the course of fashion around the world."
Provenance: Gift of Yves Saint Laurent to Fernando Sanchez (1935-2006), thence by descent to the current owner.
Sold for $3,780
Estimated at $3,000 - $5,000
Includes Buyer's Premium
Yves Saint Laurent
Four Fashion designs, each with two figures. Circa 1976. Unsigned. Colored marker on paper. Each sheet 8 x 10.5 inches. Pasted along the top edges to a black paper-covered board.
These four designs are from Yves Saint Laurent's 1976 fall-winter collection, titled "Opéra – Ballets Russes," where he first began to embrace bright colors and sumptuous fabrics, reintroducing opulence into his fashion designs after a decade dominated by muted blacks and whites. It was also his first collection to have its fashion show at the Hotel Inter-Continental. The collection was, as the name suggests, partly inspired by Sergei Diaghilev, his costume designer Leon Bakst, and Tsarist Russia. However, the designs are also evocative of nineteenth-century Orientalist paintings and certain pieces of Moroccan menswear, such as the jabador, burnous, saroual and tarboosh. Saint Laurent reworked those traditional garments into women's clothing that was liberating in terms of its silhouette, yet inherently feminine - a collection that exists between genders and cultures. It is often cited as one of the most lauded and important in Saint Laurent's long and storied career. The New York Times heralded the show as "revolutionary," and wrote in its gushing review, published on July 28, 1976, that "Yves Saint Laurent presented a fall couture collection today that will change the course of fashion around the world."
Provenance: Gift of Yves Saint Laurent to Fernando Sanchez (1935-2006), thence by descent to the current owner.
Dear Suzanne,
Thank you for inquiring about Lot 230 in our upcoming Doyle + Design part 1 auction, the four fashion designs by Yves Saint Laurent.
Regarding condition, I have inspected the sketches again and I don't have very much to add to my original description. The sheets of paper are laid down, or pasted, to a piece of thin black paper-covered card at their top two corners. Otherwise, the drawings are pristine.
Please let me know if you have any additional questions about this lot.
Kind regards,
Noah
Noah Goldrach
Cataloguer, Books
212-427-4141, ext 226
Noah.Goldrach@doyle.com
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Any condition statement is given as a courtesy to a client, is an opinion and should not be treated as a statement of fact and our Organization shall have no responsibility for any error or omission. Please contact the specialist department to request further information or additional images that may be available.
Auction: Doyle+Design: Part I, Dec 6, 2023
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Auction of Doyle+Design: Part I on December 6, 2023
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Strong Prices for Modern & Contemporary Art & Silver
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Featuring Paintings & Sculpture from the Estate of Hedda Kleinfeld Schachter
NEW YORK, NY -- On December 6, 2023, Doyle presented Part I of the popular Doyle+Design sale showcasing Modern and Contemporary art and silver by prominent artists, designers and makers of the 20th and 21st centuries. Featured were paintings and sculpture from the Estate of Hedda Kleinfeld Schachter, founder of the legendary bridal salon, Kleinfeld's (Read More).
Antoine Poncet
Highlighting the sale was a sculpture by Swiss artist Antoine Poncet (1928-2022) that achieved $37,800, far surpassing its $15,000-25,000 estimate. Executed in pink marble, Animée was acquired directly from the artist by Jack and Hedda Kleinfeld Schachter. The sculpture was a centerpiece in the newly created garden behind the Kleinfeld Bridal store in Brooklyn. When the business was sold five years later the sculpture was moved to the foyer of the Schachter’s Fifth Avenue apartment designed by Peter Marino. An eminent post-war sculptor, Antoine Poncet was highly influenced by the work of Constantin Brâncuși and Jean Arp. His sculptures showcase a balance of form and volume. Critical to each of his pieces is movement and a sense of lightness, which can be found across his work in different media and in varying scale.
Burhan Doğançay
Performing exceptionally well were two works in gouache on paper from 1983 by the Turkish-born artist Burhan Doğançay (1929-2013). The works sold for $25,200 and $23,940, each more than doubling its $7,000-9,000 estimate. Although Doğançay had artistic training from his parents, the artist pursued degrees in law and economics before his work eventually brought him to New York. It was there that Doğançay found his calling as an artist. He was engrossed by urban walls, filled with ripped or peeling posters and the remains of adverts, and their ability to convey the passage of people in time. In the 1970s and ‘80s Doğançay created a series of “Ribbon” paintings, including the current works, that evoke both a continuation of his interest in the illusion of torn paper, as well as Islamic calligraphy.
Doyle+Design: Part II
Part II of the Doyle+Design auction on December 7, 2023 offered Modern and Contemporary furniture and design spanning the 20th century to the present day (Read More).
We Invite You to Auction!
Consignments are currently being accepted for future auctions. We invite you to contact us for a complimentary auction appraisal. Our Specialists are always available to discuss the sale of a single item or an entire collection.
For information, please contact:
Furniture and Design: Todd Sell, 212-427-4141, ext 269 or Design@Doyle.com
Art: Milan Tessler, 212-427-4141, ext 2266 or Paintings@Doyle.com
