[CASSINI-KENNEDY FASHIONS] An important archive of original drawings, correspondence, annotated clippings, and workshop ephemera related to the development of Cassini's fashions for Mrs. Kennedy as First Lady.
New York: several items dated 1961-62. An archive of workroom ephemera mostly relating to Mrs. Kennedy's working relationship with Oleg Cassini's Design Coordinator Joseph Boccheir. The archive including: 1) A full page of manuscript instructions by Jacqueline Kennedy, unsigned on yellow lined paper, headed "Fall Material" and listing coats, suits, cocktail and evening dresses. 2) Five large line drawings in ink by Mrs. Kennedy, the largest 17 x 13 1/2 inches and with affixed fabrics, the balance smaller, these providing silhouettes with instructions on fabrics, folds and some wear and losses. 3) A large quantity of notes and annotated clippings and small drawings by Mrs. Kennedy, including a sketch of a gown on a small sheet of Hotel Carlyle stationery, an unsigned manuscript note on White House stationery to Mary Gallagher with questions for Kay McGowen, annotations to many color magazine pages and newspaper clippings relating to fashion, and annotations and small drawings on the letters described below. 4) Approximately sixteen original fashion designs by Boccheir for Mrs. Kennedy, pencil drawings, several with added color or swatches, each about 11 x 8 1/2 inches, most with indications that these for Mrs. Kennedy and providing other notes; 5) A group of contact sheets depicting Cassini's Kennedy models wearing his designs with two manuscript notes by Mrs. Kennedy affixed. 6) Approximately twenty correspondence items between Boccheir and Mrs. Kennedy, being original signed copies of letters he sent to the First Lady and contemporary typed copies of Mrs. Kennedy's responses provided to Boccheir in the workroom by Kay McGowen, Cassini's Showroom Director; 7) Miscellaneous ephemera including a Cassini box label addressed to Mrs. Kennedy at the White House, a blue and silver fabric sample, a guestbook album with many contemporary Cassini and fashion signatures, contemporary news clippings, etc. All with signs of handling.
An important archive highlighting the working relationship between the First Lady and the Cassini workshop, namely Design Coordinator Joseph Boccheir and Showroom Director Kay McGowen. Mrs. Kennedy was highly involved in the production of her clothing and constantly annotated the original drawings she received from Cassini's studio as well as creating her own drawings. Another design source were the popular magazines of the day, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Paris Match, etc., from which the First Lady would extract articles and ads, annotate them and send them to Cassini. The working relationship between Mrs. Kennedy, Cassini, and his workroom staff is discussed in Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years. Selections from the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum, 2001, p. 32.
C Estate of Oleg Cassini, Oyster Bay Cove Residence, New York
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